I have always been an admirer of the brand name Hidesign for its sheer versatility of meaning. But I’ve often wondered — is it pronounced ‘Hide Sign’ because the basic raw material is leather? Or, considering the classic designs of the products, is it ‘High Design’? The latter, I was recently informed, is correct.
The story behind the brand is intriguing. The founder, Dilip Kapur, grew up in Puducherry and went on to complete his doctorate in International Affairs in the US. After this, he worked in a leather house, that imported raw material from the UK that was known as East India leather. The time he spent there inculcated in him a love of the material. On his return to India, he settled again in Puducherry, where Auroville was just beginning to take shape.
To his surprise, Kapur realised that the East India leather he had seen abroad actually originated from India, in a place near Puducherry. He tied up with the leather tanners and started working and experimenting with leather as a hobby, creating designs of his own and giving away the finished products to the women in his family. When a rich friend offered a handsome amount for a bag he had designed, he realised that what was a hobby could well become his profession.
The beginning
In 1978, Hidesign was born with a capital of ₹25,000. Originally, the brand name was written as two words ‘Hide’ and ‘Design’ with ‘De’ in shadows but was later changed to the present form.
What is interesting is that Hidesign products were first sold in Germany, Australia, the US and the UK. Reportedly, a German who visited Puducherry saw the product and placed a massive order for 1,400 bags. With just one cobbler and one sewing machine, Kapur was able to supply just 200 bags in six months. But others who visited Auroville also showed interest in the hand-crafted leather bags; they took his bags abroad and spread the Hidesign name.
With its individualistic designs and classy, elite look, the brand was initially seen more in alternative stores than in mainstream ones, as the general public was still buying uniform, mass-produced products. In 1985, John Lewis became the first department store in the UK to stock the entire Hidesign range — handbags, wallets and computer bags. By 1988, Hidesign had ventured into garments, with leather jackets and long pants. It was soon present across 700 stores in London.
In 1990, Hidesign set up its first factory in Puducherry but was still not ready to enter the Indian market.
Kapur’s early designs — the Castello and Crossbody bags — were big hits with the public. In 1992, its Boxy Bag got the ‘Accessory of the Year’ award from the UK’s Accessory Magazine. Princess Diana gave away the award, sealing the brand’s popularity. The fact that the brand was used by famous personalities like President Nelson Mandela, who is said to have used the Andre bag, helped Hidesign’s growth.
Painstakingly hand-crafted
What is it that made Hidesign bags so attractive? They were made of the premium natural leather, were painstakingly hand-crafted and had individual, simple designs that appealed to a generation that was tired of shiny, second-grade leather and mass-produced bags.
Finally, in 1999, when Kapur felt that the market in India was ready, Hidesign arrived, serving the mass-luxury segment of the Indian population with stylish, individualistic, affordable (compared to foreign brands) products. By then, people who had travelled abroad and discovered the brand had already started clamouring for the Indian brand to come home.
It was a difficult decision to make as India was famous for worshipping cows rather than using their hide to make fashion statements. But Kapur clarified that all the leather used in his bags was a by-product from the carcasses of animals killed for meat. Countries that supply the leather for Hidesign today — South Africa, Brazil, Uganda and New Zealand — have flourishing meat industries.
Unable to find informed distributors, Kapur opened his own stores, first in Delhi and then Bengaluru. Initially, only 6 per cent of sales came from India. But the brand soon grew in stature. Today, more than half of the sales happen in India; and most buyers are women.
Even as Kapur continued to design bags, he inducted Alberto Ciaschini of Italy as new lead designer in 2004. There followed a collaboration with the famous international group, Louis Vuitton, and in 2010, a flagship store was opened in Puducherry. By 2013, Hidesign had diversified into sunglasses and later, in 2015, into footwear.
Exclusive designs
Hidesign’s product range today comprises travel bags, laptop bags, handbags, duffel bags, clutches, wallets, pouches, mobile phone cases, pens, stationery, leather garments, sunglasses, belts and shoes. Reportedly, about 50-60 new styles with different colours and designs are introduced every season. The designs are not dictated by fashion trends but are adapted to suit customer needs. The focus is on offering products that are contemporary, practical and stylish.
The company’s tagline is ‘Real leather, hand-crafted the forgotten way’ — and according to experts, the biggest USP of Hidesign is its product. The production process is time-consuming, as everything is hand-crafted, including the buckles, which are sandcast and polished at its own forge. The vegetable tanning process for leather alone takes 40-45 days.
The finished products are made available through 84 exclusive stores, a distribution network in more than 20 countries and product placement in about 2,000 stores around the world. Online sales account for more than half the products sold.
Hidesign, which posted a turnover of about ₹160 crore in 2018, hopes to touch revenues of ₹300 crore in 2021.
Recently, it collaborated with Disney on an ‘Enchanted Collection’ for the launch of the latter’s ‘Beauty and Beast’ live action film; and with Future Group to introduce ‘Holii’, a distinctive Indian-design bags and accessories collection.
A total of 90 per cent of the staff of Hidesign are women. In 2010, it partnered with the Ogaan Cancer Foundation to create awareness around the issues of breast cancer by launching the pink ribbon collection.
Innovation and sustainability
Kapur is a strong believer in preserving and protecting the environment. A leather tannery, by its very nature, is polluting; but at Hidesign, only the traditional vegetable tanning of leather by soaking the same in bark extracts takes place. No paints and pigments are used. All the wastewater is filtered through a RO process before being discharged; and nothing is burnt — all waste material is separated and reused. The brand is trying to expand forest cover and protect wildlife and traditional medicinal plants.
Even the factory building is green — it uses no asbestos, only bricks, and is surrounded by ponds, streams and waterfalls that recharge groundwater and aid in natural filtration.
Though it does not advertise regularly on print or on TV, Hidesign has a vibrant online presence with its own website and Facebook and Twitter handles. It launched the ‘Art of Reuse’ contest via Facebook to take the message of environment friendliness to its customers. The brand plans to work with the Indian Institute of Science to research on lab-grown leather for its designs.
Along the way to name and fame, Hidesign has collected several awards, including the AAAI award for the ‘Best ad campaign’ in 2001; the 2010 ‘Best Bags and Accessories Brand’ at Shoppers Stop’s annual Pinnacle Awards ceremony; the Ritz Audi Icon Award for best brand retail; and the Images ‘Most Admired Fashion Accessories Brand of the Year’ 2015.